Fanal Forest, Madeira, Portugal
Today’s adventure on the beautiful island of Madeira took us to the Fanal Forest. A slightly magical place where thousand year old trees exist. These trees were alive on the island before it was settled by humans. I find that to be a very cool factoid.
The weather changes rapidly in Madeira. It was sunny when we arrived, but it wasn’t long before it started raining. I came prepared with rain ponchos, which granted us a little more time to enjoy the area. The rain cleared out most people, which meant we were able to experience the majesty of the forest with less interruption. The rain didn’t last long, but the fog that accompanied it gave the laurel trees a slightly eerie feel.
I’m glad we got to experience Fanal Forest in full sunshine as well as spooky fog. I was a bit worried we’d get one or the other. The sun being out meant that we got to see all of the details of the trees, which are all weirdly shaped and almost every tree has a hole in it. The fog though, meant our visibility was low and the oddly shaped trees became the sole focus, the fog whiting out all would-be distractions in the background.
There are a few cows roaming about the forest. They are completely unbothered by the visiting humans. Fanal Forest can be quite busy, but thankfully the only real bottleneck is at the entry point, close to the car parking area. The farther you go into the forest, the less crowded it becomes. Most people, it seems, don’t experience most of the forest. They view the fenced in trees around the entrance, get a few selfies, and leave. And I have to admit, some of the Instagram famous trees are quite spectacular looking and are worthy of a photo op. But, I highly suggest that after you’ve taking the required photos, you continue deeper into the forest. Of course, I say that with the assumption that you aren’t going to try to climb the trees, litter, or otherwise act like an entitled tourist. I picked up popped balloons, various discarded paper items, and other trash while I was there. It really pains me that people go to places like this just to litter. I’m going to move on from the topic before it completely sours my mood.
I see a lot of questions about visiting the Fanal Forest, with the #1 question being about transportation. Yes, you can talk a Bolt or taxi to the Fanal Forest from Funchal. You might not be able to Bolt back to Funchal, but quite often there is a taxi stationed on the road between the parking lots. A Bolt to the forest will cost about €30. If you rented a car, the drive isn’t too difficult and you can make some pitstops along the way that will enhance your trip. For example, Praia da Ribeira da Janela, a wonderful beach on the northern side of the island, can easily become part of your trip back to Funchal. The waves on the northern side of the island are far bigger than those on the southern side. Seeing the waves crash onto those mighty rock formations is quite remarkable.
Like most popular touristy spots on Madeira, when you arrive will determine how crowded it is. Aim to get there before 9:00 or after 16:00 for fewer crowds. Depending on the season, I highly suggest wearing layers. The photos above are from our visit in mid-March and it was chilly enough at some points that I wanted my jacket, while at other times I was tying it around my waist. If you go after it has rained, which was almost daily in March, be prepared to get your shoes very muddy, and possibly your pants too. And if it rains while you are there like it did for us, just take it slow and try not to fall!
From Wikipedia:
The Madeira Islands laurel forest was designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1999, covering an area of 150 square kilometres (58 sq mi). It is believed to be 90% primordial forest. The paleobotanical record of the island of Madeira reveals that the laurel forest existed on this island at least 1.8 million years ago.